Savage Gulf Pt. 2

The morning of Day 3 brought a light drizzle and slightly lower temperatures.  I appreciated the break from the heat, but the precipitation, on top of the already high humidity, had everything I owned feeling moist.  Even my Dyneema pack.  However, I was excited that the first part of the day was going to bring some more amazing sights.

My stomach still wasn’t feeling up for breakfasts, but I managed to get down 2 granola bars and some peanut M&M’s.  On my way back from the privy, I passed a 4 year-old boy with his parents.  The boy proudly and loudly greeted me with an “I’m going to poop!”

The first 3 miles of the day were along the Big Creek Rim Trail heading towards the Stone Door Trail.  Naturally, there were several nice overlooks with sweeping early morning views.

After 3.2 miles I arrived at the junction with the Stone Door Trail at the Stone Door Overlook.  To the left about one mile is the other ranger station, and to the right you descend through the Stone Door back into the gulf.  I choose to linger at the overlook to enjoy the breeze and a snack.

The nearly 270 degree views from Stone Door Overlook are my personal favorites.

Since this overlook is easily accessible from the ranger station, lots of touristy folks are often there, so they have signs to warn them about the dangers:

It was then time to check out the most unique geologic feature of the hike- The Great Stone Door.  The “door” is a narrow vertical cleft in the rocky bluff that descends maybe a hundred feet.

The view from the bottom is actually more impressive, and better displays the extensive stonework that the trail builders employed to make this hikeable.

Unfortunately, multiple layers of punishment awaited at the bottom- mosquitos, the return of humidity, and a continued steep descent with numerous rockpiles to hop through.  By the time I hit the junction with the Connector Trail at 4.1 miles the mosquitos and gnats were driving me insane and my feet were sore.  I turned left and retraced several miles that I had hiked yesterday, crossing the dry beds of Laurel Creek and Big Creek on suspension bridges, and then passing the spur trail to the Savage Cabin.  Along the way I found one of my parents’ favorite shrubs.

After crossing another bridge over the dry Collins River, I made it to the junction with the Collins Gulf Trail, which I took to the left for nearly a half mile.

I had left camp with 3 liters of water and was now down to 1, and had not passed any immediate water sources.  I didn’t feel like I was drinking enough to counter the massive amounts of sweat I was losing, yet I now faced having to ration what I had left.

At 7.7 miles, now down nearly into the central portion of the gulf, I reached the junction with the Stage Road Historic Trail.

This trail follows an old stagecoach road that led from the rim down into the gulf and then out along the Collins River.  Perhaps back in the day it was navigable, but now a good portion of it is almost a rock-strewn gully.  However, it had a surprisingly gentle grade as it ascended 700+ ft. to the rim over 1.6 miles.  But still, lots of mosquitos and no water.  I was down to my last gulp when I spotted a pooling seep to my left.  I quickly deployed my 2 oz. measuring cup to ladle out 3 liters of cool agua into my HydroPak, which I then filtered.  I drank 2 of those liters on the spot, then refilled my bottles and HydroPak before continuing on.  It took a good while, and the mosquito hordes helped themselves to another pint of my blood during the process.

Naturally, after all the work that this took, another 200 yards up the trail there was a small wet weather waterfall that was flowing nicely.  Grrr.

Just before the Stage Road Trail ended, it did a sharp hairpin turn that featured some impressive rock terracing to buttress the upper portion of the trail.

Finally, I reached the rim and the junction with the South Rim Trail.  From there, it was another mile to the Stage Road Camp Area, where I had made lunch on Day 1.  I found my tidy little campsite (#7) after passing a miserable one (#6) that I thankfully had not selected during my online registration.  It took only a minute to set up my tent and get ready to cook dinner, which tonight was Good To-Go’s Indian Vegetable Korma.  This was the big winner meal of the trip.  SO good.  Right as I finished dinner it started to drizzle again, so I battened down the hatches and was asleep before hiker midnight.  Day 3:  10.3 miles.

I emerged from my tent the next morning into a drizzle and immediately triggered a loud bucksnort 20 yards in the woods behind me.  I was dismayed to discover that the mosquitos were out in stronger than ever numbers.  I suddenly became aware that my body was COVERED with bites.  My elbows looked like I was a leper, and quite honestly I was miserable.  Once again I cursed myself for leaving a 0.5 oz. mini bottle of DEET at home.  That’s what happens when you overdo the gram weenie thing.  I packed and broke camp with lightning speed, hit the nearby stream to filter 2 liters of water (the mosquitos got another half pint toll fee from me) and started booking it down the trail.

I had originally planned to end up at the far end of the North Rim Trail tonight to stay at Hobbs Cabin, but that was over 12 miles away, and between mosquito agony, rain picking up, and bruised feet, not to mention a text from one of my kids who missed their Dad a LOT, I decided to cut this trip short.  Guilt-free, I trotted the 6 miles back to the Savage Falls Ranger Station by 12:30 and hit the road, where I soon found an unsuspecting McDonald’s to deal with my suddenly-awakened hiker hunger.

It was a fun trip nonetheless, and provided me with some valuable learning points.  One, I do not prosper hiking in heat AND humidity and definitely need to drink more water in such conditions.  Two, bring the bleeping DEET.  Every. Time.  Three, I had some serious work to do with dialing in breakfasts, and in general solving my appetite problems during the first two days of hikes.  And four, I had otherwise nailed my gear selections and pulled off my lightest weight hike ever.  Hopefully I will be able to apply some of these lessons to my upcoming Virginia AT section hike in December.  Day 4:  6.0 miles.